We’ve all had a period in life where we either chose or unintentionally took a break from climbing. It’s inevitable, whether it’s from business or from a lack of motivation. Instead of living in the grief and regret of missing those key days in the gym or outside, perhaps it’s better to develop a solid and effective system to get back into climbing shape faster.
After having many breaks this past year due to just about every hindrance coming my way, the main one being my own personal motivation, I’ve devised a system that I feel works to get back into climbing shape faster and more effectively after taking a break from climbing.
When it comes to climbing, though, we all have to remember that each of our bodies are different and we all have different strengths and weaknesses. These are my recommendations for my own personal body, so I encourage you when you have those first few gym sessions back, find a problem that you have previously done that is at your limit that you are no longer able to do. When attempting the problem, try to analyze your muscles and your movement and consider what might be letting you down in order to do this problem. I found that when I tried to do a wide move, my shoulders were unable to sustain the power and I couldn’t grab the wide hold, an indicator that my shoulders needed some attention. So first of all find your weakness, then target it.*
Although we are different, we all use the same climbing muscles, so keeping your own body in mind, here are my exercises for the fastest way to recover from a climbing break.
1) Max Hangs // Target: shoulders & fingers
Frequency: 1x a week, then 2x according to fingers feeling comfortable (no pain)
After a full and complete warm up, at least 30 mins raising body temperature and using all your climbing muscles, go for your max hangs. Max hangs are probably the most important for reinvigorating the mind and body to be capable of trying hard again. We usually just need 2-3 sessions in order to ‘re-awaken’ our power.
On a 20mm or smaller edge, add as much weight (safely, meaning without slipping off) as you can for 5 seconds. Progress in weight slowly, so test your max carefully without overloading your fingers with a heavy load on your first go. Rest 3-5 minutes in between 5 sec hangs.
2) Max Pull Ups // Target: Shoulders & Core
Frequency: 1x a week, then 2x according to soreness
I like to do pull ups at the start of my sessions when I am coming back from a break. After a warm up, pull ups can help me activate my shoulder muscles for the climbing moves to come. Here’s a great video from Lattice on pull up form.
Harder: On jugs or a bar, do 8 pull ups with 2-3 rests in between for at least 5 sets. Stop when you are no longer able to perform 8 pulls with good form. Rest 3-5 mins between each set.
Easier: If you can’t do 8 pull ups, try a maximum pull session. First do your max pull ups, rest 3 mins then do 1 pull up less each time until you reach 2 pull ups. Rest 3-5 mins between each set.
I like to do wide pull ups instead of narrow, but it is up to you. I recommend a mix of wide pull ups and narrow for those who are shorter in height.
3) TRX Sequence (High, Mid, Low, Rows, Roll Out) //
Targets: Upper Back (Latissimus Dorsi, Rhomboids, Traps), Biceps, Core, Erector Spinae, Rear Shoulders (Deltoids)
Frequency: 2x a week
Below is a video of me performing the High, Mid, then Low Rows, then a Roll Out. Notice my hand position. First I start with my hands palms facing down (high row) then I rotate 45 degrees inwards (mid row), then I rotate to palms in, elbows to ribs (low row).
I love a good bit of IYT as well, but for recovering my climbing fitness, I found the rows to be the most helpful.
The images below show a Roll Out. Turn around and face the TRX the other way, then keeping the body and arms straight, lean forward. This targets shoulder stability, flexibility and also your core.
4) HIIT Core Jumps // Targets: Core and overall cardio fitness, legs if you choose jump squats
Frequency: 2x a week
Choose 8 core exercises that are difficult for you.
Some examples are V-ups, Russian Twist, Hanging Leg Raises, Crunches, Side Plank Hip Raises, Plank, Side Plank, In&Out Boats, Sitting Up Bicycle.
Perform your chosen core exercise for 1 min then perform 1 min cardio (jump squats, burpees, mountain climbers). Do this for 8 sets. Repeat up to 3 times for as long as you can keep form.
5) Boulder Repetitions // Targets: Power Endurance
Frequency: 1x a week
Choose 3-6 boulder problems that you have done in 1-3 tries, but with considerable effort.
Do one boulder once then repeat immediately a 2nd time. Rest for 15 seconds then do it a 3rd time. Optional: rest for 30 seconds then do it a 4th time.
Rest for 4-5 minutes in between each set of 3-4 tries on each boulder.
This workout is a very basic climbing workout that I feel targets the areas that tend to fall out of fitness the fastest. These include lack of core activation, shoulder weakness, finger under-stimulation, and overall lack of fitness, which can show in poor aerobic performance (getting pumped to quickly) and lack of power endurance (not being able to do moves for a longer power sequence).
If you have any suggestions that you felt were some of the most important exercises for you when you got back into shape after a climbing break, please comment below and message me on Instagram!
Happy Climbing!
-Alice
*If you need help finding an exercise once you’ve discovered your weakness comment your question below or message me on Instagram.
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